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Avignon’s Palace of the Popes: a Papal City Without Popes

Home » DESTINATIONS » Avignon’s Palace of the Popes: a Papal City Without Popes

Last Modified: August 23, 2023 //  by Anda //  41 Comments

But for the gigantic and lavish Palace of the Popes, Avignon might have never risen to fame. The austere-looking fortress (Palais des Papes) was the residence and ruling place of 9 popes, who reigned in Avignon for nearly 70 in the 1300’s. 

But how did the French city of Avignon become a papal city? Why Avignon and not Rome? Read on to find out.

Table of Contents

  • Why Did the Popes Move to Avignon?
  • The Construction of the Palace
  • What to Expect at the Popes’ Palace in Avignon
  • Tips for Visiting the Popes’ Palace
  • How to Get to Avignon
  • Other Things to Visit in Avignon, Besides the Popes’ Palace

Why Did the Popes Move to Avignon?

Having the Papal seat in Avignon and not in Rome surely comes as a surprise. Unless of course, you are acquainted with Europe’s political situation in the 1300s.

The Popes of Avignon

The 14th-century Rome was a dangerous place for the popes. So when the Frenchman Clemens V was elected Pope, he declined to move to Rome for fear he would be killed. As a result, in 1309 Clemens moved the papal palace to Avignon, where it remained for the next 67 years.

Doors of the Popes Palace in Avignon
The sculpted portal known as the Magna Porta at the Popes’ Palace

The next six popes who followed Clemens V remained in Avignon as well. It wasn’t until 1377 that Pope Gregory XI finally moved the papal seat back to Rome, thus ending the Avignon papacy.

But despite this move, a second line of illegitimate popes, known as antipopes, continued to rule in Avignon. This movement is known in history as the Western Schism.

Interior courtyard at Palais des Papes in Avignon
Interior courtyard of the Popes’ Palace in Avignon

The Construction of the Palace

The French popes did not care to maintain Roman basilicas in Avignon, starting instead the construction of a huge palace. That indicated clearly that they were absolutely determined to establish their permanent residence in Avignon.

The end result was the enormous Palais des Papes, the biggest Gothic palace in all of Europe. 

View of the Avignon Cathedral next to the Palace of the Popes
View of the Avignon Cathedral

Two popes were the primary builders of the Palace. In 1335 Pope Benedict XII began building the Palace in Avignon. He erected the first part, which is referred to today as Palais Vieux (the Old Palace). It’s the part on the left, when you look at the palace from the square.

Pope Clement VI continued the work, erecting the newer part of the Palace. Interestingly enough, despite its gigantic proportions, the Popes Palace took less than 20 years to complete.

What to Expect at the Popes’ Palace in Avignon

The fist thing that will strike you at the Popes’ Palace in Avignon is the immensity of space within its walls. Huge rooms, extensive courtyards, large bed chambers and halls the size of a football field! The palace is a construction of gigantic proportions. Its interior space is the equivalent of four gothic cathedrals!

Gigantic hall at the Popes Palace in Avignon
Gigantic hall at the Popes Palace in Avignon

Everything is so overwhelmingly big that you really feel lost when walking around. Although over 600,000 people visit the palace every year, this place never seems crowded because it’s so huge.

From the outside, the massive building looks more like a fortress than a palace. The 50 meter high reinforced walls stand proof to the fact that the popes expected major attacks here at any time.

View of main entrance of Palais des Papes
The Palace of the Popes in Avignon, view of the main entrance

There are in all about 25 rooms that you can visit in the Palace, including the ceremonial rooms, the Audience Hall, the Clementine Chapel, and the Consistory, where the popes held the hearings. All these rooms are of extraordinary proportions.

Stone effigies in the North Sacristy
Stone effigies in the North Sacristy

You can also visit the private apartments where the popes lived, including the Stag Room and the Papal Chamber. The rooms display frescoes depicting secular themes, which was totally unique for the time.

Unfortunately, most of the original furnishings and the paintings that once decorated the Popes’ Palace were lost or burned down after the papal court moved from Avignon to Rome. Very few pieces of the original pieces survived the time.

Don’t miss the rooftop terraces which provide stunning views of the Palace, the city of Avignon and the Rhone River.

Rooftop Terrace at the Palace of the Popes
Rooftop terrace

Tips for Visiting the Popes’ Palace

For the most part, the visit of the Palais des Papes is accessible to anyone. There are however some steep passages and narrow spiral staircases that may be difficult for people with restricted mobility.

Be sure to wear comfortable shoes and, in you visit the Palace in summer, bring water. There are no drinks vending machines or cafeteria in this part of the Palais.

Listening to the audioguide in the Palais des Papes
Listening to the audioguide at the Palace of the Popes

I also suggest renting an audioguide when visiting the Popes Palace. Without it you will feel lost in this huge fortress. The audioguide is enhanced with music and synchronized with several movies that play in some of the rooms.

How to Get to Avignon

The town of Avignon is in Southern France, right on the border with Languedoc-Roussillon. The closest cities to Avignon are Marseille (98 km) and Montpellier (93 km). From Paris there are about 690 km. We visited Avignon as a day trip from Nice (262 km). Driving time was about 2.5 hours.

There are two train stations in Avignon: Avignon Ville and Avignon TGV. Therefore, if you want to visit Avignon from Paris, you can use the direct train (TGV) that will bring you here in 2h40.

If you are in Marseille or Montpellier, which are both closer to Avignon, you can also arrive here by bus.

Other Things to Visit in Avignon, Besides the Popes’ Palace

After you finish visiting the Palace of the Popes, head towards the iconic Pont d’Avignon. The broken bridge is worldwide known thanks to the classic song “Sur le Pont d’Avignon.”

You can also visit the 14th century ramparts of Old Avignon, which are very impressive.

View of Pont d'Avignon from the old ramparts
View of Pont d’Avignon from the old ramparts

From the ramparts, you can continue climbing to the Jardin du Rocher des Doms. This is a beautiful park located on a promontory that overlooks the river. This is an excellent point for photographing Pont d’Avignon from above.

View of the Rhône River
View of the Rhône River from the Jardin du Rocher

Also, don’t miss the Avignon Cathedral, located next to the Palais des Papes. The cathedral is a beautiful Romanesque building, dating back to the the 12th century. The most prominent feature of the cathedral is a gilded statue of the Virgin Mary atop the bell tower.

Avignon Cathedral
Avignon Cathedral

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Visiting the Palace of the Popes in Avignon

Category: DESTINATIONS, Europe, FranceTag: Castles and Fortresses

About Anda

Anda is an award winning travel writer, avid globetrotter and passionate photographer. She is the voice behind "Travel Notes & Beyond," a collection of stories and travel impressions from her wanderings around the world. When she is not busy writing, traveling, or editing photographs, you can find her hiking in the foothills behind her house together with her husband and their dog.

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Adriano Soares Silva

    December 5, 2023 at 12:54 pm

    Aqui Morreu o PAPA JOÃO XXI soterrado quando se desmoronou uma parede durante obras efectuadas no seu PAPADO . JOÃO XXI foi um PAPA PORTUGUÊS de seu nome PEDRO HISPANO, médico e ciêntista.

    Reply
  2. Yukti

    November 12, 2018 at 8:51 am

    I never knew that Avignon was the residence of Pope for 67 years before reading your post. Oh after Pope moved to Rome there were illegitimate Pope ruling from Avignon. Sometimes history is so interesting after knowing many facts. Also, Pope palace is huge with Gothic cathedrals and really a very beautiful place to visit.

    Reply
  3. Sinjana Ghosh

    November 12, 2018 at 8:49 am

    Wow never heard of Avignon but it is just so impressive. Thanks for this experiential guide to Avignon with all the historical facts about why the pope did not move to Rome, the rise of anti-popes and the significance of this palace. I love Gothic architecture and would love to travel to Avignon only to see this fortress

    Reply
  4. Lisa

    November 12, 2018 at 5:31 am

    As someone who spends a lot of time in Italy, and reading about the country’s history, I never knew about this. It’s such a stunning place, which looks pretty amazing despite its many years. I can imagine how impressive it is to visit the Pope’s Palace just by admiring your photos. A very informative post.

    Reply
  5. Daniel

    November 12, 2018 at 5:08 am

    As a history lover, I really enjoyed this post! I visited more cities and villages in France than I can count but never made it to Avignon. Looking at your pictures seems like I missed out big time. I’m definitely going to visit soon.

    As a Medieval History nerd, I was LOVING this. I’ve always wanted to go to Avignon, and your photos and journey make me want to even more. It’s so gorgeous and steeped in intrigue and history. Wonderful!

    Reply
  6. Sarah

    November 12, 2018 at 2:19 am

    I’ve heard of Avignon from that song but had no idea about the history. I would love to visit the Palace of the Popes, it looks amazing. I think even today a French pope would prefer to live in France than Italy 🙂

    Reply
  7. Kristina

    November 11, 2018 at 6:11 pm

    As a Medieval History nerd, I was LOVING this. I’ve always wanted to go to Avignon, and your photos and journey make me want to even more. It’s so gorgeous and steeped in intrigue and history. Wonderful!

    Reply
  8. Annick

    November 11, 2018 at 6:10 pm

    I haven’t been to Avignon yet but when I do, I plan to visit the Palais des Papes. It makes sense that it’s almost more of a fortress since being pope was dangerous. What a great way to spend a day exploring this time of the church when the Pope’s were in France and after when there was a schism.

    Reply
  9. Lynne Sarao

    November 11, 2018 at 10:08 am

    I had no idea about the history of this palace in Avignon. It looks like it would most definitely be worth a visit. Your photos are gorgeous!

    Reply
  10. Bhushavali N

    November 11, 2018 at 9:44 am

    Right on time! I just came across Avignon’s flight tickets and I was wondering what’s there to see. I guess it would be a good idea to spend a weekend, a one-night stay there and see all these stunning historical sites.
    This is very interesting. After visiting Rome, this is fascinating to visit here and compare the 2 places.
    Ha! I can imagine this looking like a fort. Afterall, as you say, they expected attack any time!

    Reply
  11. Esther

    July 13, 2017 at 4:19 am

    How beautiful. Would you say Avignon is only worth a daytrip, or would you stay longer?

    Reply
    • Anda Galffy

      July 13, 2017 at 10:07 am

      We’ve been there twice, but just for the day. We had enough time to visit the castle.

      Reply
  12. Anna

    July 8, 2017 at 8:50 pm

    I never realized Avignon was popes’ residence for 67 years, Palace of the Popes looks like a great place to explore! Thanks for the wanderlust – should add this to my French bucket list 😉

    Reply
  13. Rob+Ann at TravelLatte(.net)

    July 6, 2017 at 3:46 pm

    Oh my, what a beautiful palace! There is so much we want to do and see around Avignon, and the Palais des Papes is near the top of the list. This post just fired up our French wanderlust even more. Time to start planning! 🙂

    Reply
    • Anda Galffy

      July 7, 2017 at 5:41 pm

      Hahaha, “French wanderlust”! I love that, Rob. I think we all have it, don’t we?

      Reply
  14. Bryna | Dotted Line Travels

    July 3, 2017 at 8:41 pm

    I didn’t know anything about Avignon so this was a very interesting read! After visiting the Vatican City, I’d love to see Avignon too.

    Reply
    • Anda Galffy

      July 4, 2017 at 3:36 pm

      The popes stayed in Avignon for almost 70 years, Bryna. It’s interesting to see that the Vatican wasn’t always the seat of the Papacy.

      Reply
  15. Jim ~ ReflectionsEnroute

    July 2, 2017 at 11:54 pm

    We had a very short visit to Avignon several years ago, but left feeling like we hadn’t really seen it all. We really just did a run through of the Papal palace exterior. Your article has brought it all back and inspired me to get back to that enchanting city!

    Reply
    • Anda Galffy

      July 3, 2017 at 10:34 am

      I hear you, Jim. I’ve been there twice and still had the same feeling as you. It’s a very interesting place to visit.

      Reply
  16. Mapping The Map

    July 2, 2017 at 10:11 am

    My boyfriend (and co-blogger) has, but I’ve never been to Avignon despite the city is so close to Barcelona… After reading your post I’m more keen to visit it!

    Reply
  17. Rhonda Albom

    July 1, 2017 at 12:38 pm

    It’s difficult to imagine that Rome was a dangerous place for the Pope. The Palace is huge and formidable; I guess just what Pope Clemens V would want as he disbanded the Knights Templar.

    Reply
  18. David

    July 1, 2017 at 11:53 am

    Avignon is another place in France that I’d love to visit, especially for its history. I got close this year but sadly didn’t make it there. The concept of multiple popes today seems strange so it must have been a truly confusing time during the schism.

    Reply
    • Anda Galffy

      July 1, 2017 at 11:47 pm

      The Palace of Avignon is quite unique.It is not only enormous, but it has a very interesting history. Hope you’ll get to visit it next year.

      Reply
  19. Anisa

    July 1, 2017 at 8:28 am

    I didn’t know the Pope’s residence moved from Rome, but it does make sense. The Palace does look very impressive.

    Reply
    • Anda Galffy

      July 1, 2017 at 11:59 pm

      The Palace of Avignon was a surprise for me too. It’s quite impressive.

      Reply
  20. Lolo

    July 1, 2017 at 1:48 am

    How interesting! I didn’t know that about the Papacy! Now I’m intrigued and will need to pin this!

    Reply
  21. Victoria @celebratetheweekend

    April 18, 2015 at 10:41 am

    Anda, your stories are enlightening and delightful at the same time:) I like your travel angel:) and the pictures compliment your words so well:)

    Reply
    • Anda Galffy

      April 19, 2015 at 11:38 am

      Thank you, Victoria. The Palace of the Popes is very impressive.

      Reply
  22. Arnie

    April 18, 2015 at 6:15 am

    Avignon is on our list. We were near it in 2012, but didn’t want to just shoehorn it in. Thanks for all the info.

    Reply
    • Anda Galffy

      April 19, 2015 at 12:55 pm

      Hope you’ll get to see Avignon, Arnie. It’s such an amazing place to visit.

      Reply
  23. Melodie K.

    April 17, 2015 at 11:41 pm

    Oh, yes, le Palais des Papes is grand. That fact ~ combined with Avignon’s fabled bridge, medieval city walls, and kind residents ~ made my stay there one of the most enjoyable ever in France.

    Reply
  24. Linda Bibb

    April 17, 2015 at 5:22 pm

    Ohhhh. Thanks to that song “Sur le Pont d’Avignon” I have wanted to go to Avignon ever since I first studied French in junior high school. Silly, I know. Fortunately Dan wants to visit the Papal Palace as well. And about that song. Maybe I can even get him to dance on the bridge, lol.

    Reply
    • Anda Galffy

      April 19, 2015 at 12:49 pm

      It’s so funny that Avignon is best known to most of us because of the famous song.

      Reply
  25. Ruth

    April 17, 2015 at 4:39 pm

    Great info! Not so long ago I went to Santa Barbara and I was told the story about the Châteauneuf-du-Pape area and its wineries. A lot of beautiful towns, interesting history and good food in this area.

    Reply
    • Anda Galffy

      April 19, 2015 at 12:50 pm

      Isn’t it funny, Ruth, to find out about Avignon in Santa Barbara, California?

      Reply
  26. Marin

    April 17, 2015 at 12:26 am

    I like it ! Thanks for taking me with you there , recently ! Love !

    Reply
  27. Traveling Rockhopper

    April 14, 2015 at 6:46 am

    I like these places a lot! Nice pictures!

    Reply
  28. Suze The Luxury Columnist

    April 14, 2015 at 4:23 am

    This is really interesting, I went to Avignon many years ago but didn’t have time to visit the Popes’ Palace, I did sing on the famous bridge though!

    Reply
    • Melodie K.

      April 17, 2015 at 11:47 pm

      Good for you, Suze! I sang the rhyme, too (and may have danced a bit . . .!)

      Reply
  29. Jessica @ Green Global Travel

    April 13, 2015 at 3:07 pm

    Thank you so much for this enlightening post! I had no idea the city of Avignon had such a fascinating history. I absolutely LOVE the first photo of the Palace of Popes; what a beautiful structure!

    Reply
    • Anda Galffy

      April 13, 2015 at 4:07 pm

      Thank you, Jessica. It’s so good to know that my post made you discover this fabulous landmark of Avignon.

      Reply

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