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Getting to Paso Robles by Train
‘Is this the train for San Luis Obispo?’ ‘Yes ma’am’, the conductor replied. So I grabbed my suitcase and rushed towards the front railcar. Anticipation always plays an important part in my travels. But I was feeling no excitement or anticipation that morning when I boarded the train for my Paso Robles media tour.
As the train was passing through the small towns along the Pacific Coast, I tried to visualize how my next three days were going to unfold. A group of eight travel journalists brought together from all over North America to be given a “snapshot” look at the region. So there was going to be food and wine and then more food and more wine, then food again… What a bore!
I drove around this area so many times before on my way to more exciting destinations. Like San Francisco, or Carmel. Yet, I never thought that Paso Robles would be worth a little detour. But I was wrong!
Where is Paso Robles?
Paso Robles (americanized by the locals as PA-so RO-bulz) is settled in San Luis Obispo County, about midway between Los Angeles and San Francisco. Its ideal location –close to the to mountains, beaches and the desert – offers the perfect blend of relaxation and excitement.
The downtown area is lined with quirky shops, nice hotels, and historic buildings with styles from from Victorian to Mexican adobe. Most of them have been turned into boutiques, art galleries, restaurants and bars.
The area’s ideal climate makes Paso the perfect place for grape growing. At the beginning of the 19th century Paso Robles was already in the wine making business, but it had a hard time competing against its further north neighbors, Napa Valley and Sonoma.
In the last several years however, tiny wineries began making a big splash in Paso showcasing their exciting, experimental wines and promising to turn the area into the new Napa. Today, Paso Robles it the fastest growing viticultural area in California.
Exploring Paso Robles’s Best Wineries
On my first night in town I checked into the Hampton Inn & Suites, then joined the rest of the group for a gourmet dinner at La Bellasera Restaurant. Later on that evening we’ve got our first taste of the local wines at a small wine bar/retailer tucked away in an alley of the downtown. Larry, the owner, welcomed us at the door.
“We are called Taste in the Alley because our front door is located on an alley connecting Pine Street with Park Street” he explains, pouring six one ounce pours for each one of us. “Our wine flights are tailored to your tastes from our open bottles. Don’t like a pour? No problem! We will replace it with another choice,” he adds with a smile.
Exploring Paso Robles’s wineries was one of the most exciting activity on this trip. Each day we visited a new winery and heard stories of sometimes humble beginnings.
“My husband fell in love with this area while he was still in college” says Monica Villicana. She and her husband, Alex, later got married and began planting their own vineyard in Paso Robles. “We both had day jobs in Los Angeles, but commuted to Paso every week-end to care for our vineyard,” she gushes over pours of his grape-based vodka, gin, and limoncello.
Each year the Villicanas –now full time residents of Paso– farm and harvest their own grapes. Re:Find Handcrafted Spirits is the result of their efforts and desire to use the surplus grape juice from the annual fall crush. They also obtain juice from many of their neighbors.
But Paso Robles is not just about the wine. Although there are now more than 250 wineries in the region and over 26,000 acres of vineyards, the area is also ideal for agriculture. Paso Roble’s unique topography provides a wealth of organic fruits and vegetables, as well as grass-fed beef, artisanal cheeses, locally grown and pressed extra virgin olive oil. Also, the town’s proximity to the ocean supplies an abundance of fresh fish and sea food.
As it appears, Paso is not only a wine lover’s paradise, but a food lover’s heaven as well. A true Garden of Eden! There are farms galore and many of them are open to the public for everything, from oil tasting and tours, to cheese making and even lodging.
Best Organic Restaurants
Paso Roble’s restaurants are equally exciting to explore. Our first morning started with an incredibly tasty breakfast at Thomas Hill Organics Bistro. “We kind of fell into this business accidentally” says Debbie Thomas, the owner of the restaurant. “We just wanted to relocate to a more peaceful place and one day we found this charming spot and jumped on the opportunity.
Within two weeks we made a decision: We were opening a restaurant.” Thomas Hill Organics serves only organic, regionally produced food, grass-fed beef, lamb, and fruits and vegetables straight from the nearby farmers. Oh, and yes, their food was outstanding!
In the afternoon, we have been invited to tour Tamara Clifford’s Rancho Dos Amantes, a unique and enchanting farm, totally hidden away from the hustle and bustle of the busy urban life.
“It all started with the idea to get away from it all,” explains Tamara, a middle age woman burned by the Californian sun. “Jeff and I fell in love with California’s central coast 20 years ago, sold our property in the city and bought this piece of land in Paso Robles’s wine country.”
They worked hard, expanding from a small hive of bees to raising chickens and goats and a fully developed working farm. In time, they transformed the existing grounds completely and turned them into a gorgeous property with a fruit orchard, a vegetable garden, a rustic outdoor kitchen and a barn. The Cliffords have also built three fully furnished casitas for guests who want to enjoy a few days away from the crowds, or for weddings and special events.
Meeting the Farmers
Our day at Rancho Dos Amantes was the highlight of the trip: meeting farmers from around the area, hearing their stories, tasting the fresh local cuisine, enjoying the bucolic setting and magnificent views of the rolling hills of the central coast. We even got a lesson in planting and growing veggies.
In the evening, we enjoyed a vegan meal served in a very unique setting: a school bus! Ddekkabus is the newest ‘bistro’ in town that gives a whole new meaning to the eating experience. Taking the bus to the farm for dinner? It doesn’t get much better than this!
A Bike Tour Through the Vineyards
But what’s a food and wine-tasting trip without a little excitement? On our last day in Paso Robles we’ve got to hop on bikes and take a guided cycling tour through the Shale Oak Winery. Now, I have a confession to make: I am not a big fan of biking.
I used to ride my bike to work eons ago, but in the past 20 years my rear end didn’t touch the saddle too often. Although many active Boomers consider biking a recreational activity that is a little easier on their body, I don’t share their conviction. So we could safely say I was a little unprepared for the challenge.
But it was fun (aside from my bad fall halfway through the ride.) Our hosts at Paso Bike Tours were extremely gracious and knowledgeable, making this an interesting experience.
A Final Note
Our media trip to Paso Robles was more than just a food and wine-tasting escapade. It was an educational and eye opening event. My goal for this trip was to enjoy the journey as much as the destination and it was remarkably easy to fall in love with the area’s warm and colorful spirit.
Strolling through the downtown, visiting the wineries, tasting the olive oil and the local food convinced me that Paso Robles is more than just a land of cattle grazing on the hills. It has become one of California’s most exciting wine regions and travel destinations.
Paso Robles Hampton Inn – not Your Average Hilton Property
Morocco tours
Thank you for the wonderful article and the lovely pictures
Janet
I have explored much of the wine country in Northern Cali and around S.F. I need to venture south to Paso Robles on my next trip west. This is a great article thanks for the tips.
Nancie Lee
Paso Robles looks wonderful!! I’ve haven’t done a media tour yet, but this looks like a great place to experience. I’m with you on the biking! haha Your photos are deliciously tempting!! I love the beautiful colors. Thanks for sharing your insights on this type of trip. I hope to get to do one someday. Thanks for sharing Anda!
Anda Galffy
Thanks for your comment, Nancie. Paso was indeed a great experience.
Lauren Lekai
Great article, you captured Paso Robles! For those of you interested in getting your hands on the only map that has EVERY winery, brewery and distillery on it, yes Re-FIND included, go to http://pasorobleswineries.net/paso-robles-wine-tasting-map/
Hope to see you all in Paso!
Anda Galffy
Thank you, Lauren. We had a blast visiting your area.
Linda Bibb
You had me at grape-based vodka and limoncello, Anda. Though I’m not a regular spirits drinker I am thoroughly intrigued and would love to try some sometime. The price of $36.99 per bottle is only a few dollars higher than top-rated Grey Goose. It would be interesting to compare them side-by-side.
Anda Galffy
I loved the Limoncello, Linda. They gave it to us to try at first pure, but then they prepared a cool summer drink with it, with lemon juice, lemon syrup and mineral water. It was divine and not at all intoxicating.
Camille
Thank you for writing about the beauty and culture of Paso Robles! We enjoyed having you at Rancho Dos Amantes.
Anda Galffy
It was my pleasure to visit this wonderful place, Camille.
Joe Ankenbauer
Wow, what an incredible trip! You captured it well! I’ve done the drive before as well, but I need to try it by train. It looks like a lot of fun!
Geert
Must say, I never heard of Paso Robles before. When I first read your title, I thought it was going to be about some town in South America or something 😉 Looks like a great weekend destination if you’re from California!
Anda Galffy
It really is, Geert, I’m glad I discovered it too although I’ve been living in California for 30 years.
Connie Reed
Paso Robles looks like an awesome place to visit. Sometimes those trips that we think are going to be so-so end up being memorable. Last year my husband and I took an agricultural tour of the Salinas Valley. We didn’t think we’d find it interesting. After all, we’re from Midwest farm country. Were we ever wrong! The tour was fascinating; we loved every minute of it.
Anda Galffy
You are so right, Connie. Like you, I went there with very little enthusiasm.
Suze - Luxury Columnist
Rancho dos Amantes looks like a fabulous place and congratulations on getting back into the (bicycle) saddle again!
Anda Galffy
Ha,ha,ha, I don’t know for how long I’ll be doing it, Suze. It’s not exactly my cup of tea.
Tess Andrade
Ohhhhh i love the look of this! Really need to travel to the States rather sooner than later! My best friend moved to Los Angeles and I’ve never been – and my boyfriend’s favourite city in the world is San Francisco —and this is in the middle – there is really no excuse not to go! I loved the photo of you all sitting together on the big table out in the country side! Just beautiful!
mark wyld
Looks like a great experience was had by all and your photo’s of the trip are amazing. The food looks unbelievable, Rancho Dos Amantes seems like a great place, my dad makes honey . As you stated you wanted to fall in love with the area i cant see how you would not
Clare (Suitcases and Sandcastles)
I completely agree about the anticipation of a trip being one of the highlights as well. I love looking forward to a trip and planning what I’ll do when I get there. Paso Robles looks delightful – all that wonderful food and wine makes me long to have been there with you. #TheWeeklyPostcard
Rosemary
What a fun experience. You story including the pictures are absolutely wonderful. So interesting to read about the humble beginnings of many of the places you visited. Good to highlight so that we can support local businesses. Have been in the area, but not Paso Robles. Will need to visit the area soon 🙂
Drew
I would love to get up to Paso Robles. I have spent a lot of time in the Central Coast wine tasting, but only made as far north as Santa Maria Valley. So many great vineyards up there, not too mention the food. It is one of my favorite areas of California, with a little bit of something for everyone.
Susanna
If you go back make sure to visit the Hitching Post in Casmalia. Great pics, btw.
Sara | Belly Rumbles
Firstly how awesome is that bus!! I would happily take my taste buds on a tour of Paso Robles. The wine and food sound fantastic.
Victoria@celebratetheweekend
Anda, what an interesting trip and a new (group touring) experience for you. But isn’t it your husband in the bike photo or not? I typically prefer to plan my own trips but sometimes a group experience with everything pre-planned is just what we need. I made a tiny peek into the region (in passing between Santa Barbara and Hearst Castle) when we spent the night on our Californian road trip a couple of years ago but did not give it the time it deserves! will be saving your notes:)
Anda Galffy
That’s my husband indeed, Victoria. This was a press trip that preceded the NATJA Conference in Oxnard and he came to visit me.
Alina Popescu
The photos are gorgeous! The scenery, the food, and the wine all look fantastic. Before reading this, I’d only heard Paso Robles being mentioned in passing, but it’s just made it on my list of places to visit.
Anda Galffy
Thank you Alina, glad to meet another Romanian girl.
Vicki
Beautiful photos, you really captured your tour well and lovely to hear the backstories of some of the wineries. I love a good wine and food tour so think Paso Robles would be perfect for me – If only I lived a little closer 😉 #theweeklypostcard
Anda Galffy
You should make time to visit this area, Vicki. It’s really beautiful.
Rob
Wonderful photos, I really like the Glendale Station, what a great building and what a great experience. It looks like you had a great time and had some incredible food. I would love to visit that area and sample the food and wine in Paso Robles.
Cat | For Two, Please
Looks like you had lots of fun in Paso Robles! I always want to do a wine tour when I visit a foreign country 😀
Anda Galffy
It’s a great way to meet the locals and chat over a glass of wine, Cat.
Eva
What a wonderful article Anda! It brings back all the memories 🙂 I’m going to share it on Twitter!!
Anda Galffy
Thanks, Eva. We had a great time, didn’t we?
Rhonda Albom
Too bad I am going to miss this spot during our USA adventure. We fly from SF to LA.
Anda Galffy
Yea, driving would have been great but it takes time.
Diane Sukiennik
We have had the pleasure of visiting and writing about this rich area. Thanks for the memories and the spectacular pics.
Anda Galffy
Thank you for your comment, Diane. I loved Paso Robles!
Mary {The World Is A Book}
Love Paso Robles! It’s such a great city to spend the weekend or even just spend a day in. We’ve done some wine tasting along the wine trail here. I need to take note of these restaurants you recommended here for our next trip. Lucky you for having a great tour.
Anda Galffy
I was lucky, Mary, but more than Paso itself I enjoyed the company of the other writers. Thanks for the comment.