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Laguna de Los Tres

Laguna de Los Tres – How to Hike to the Base of Mt. Fitz Roy

Home » DESTINATIONS » Laguna de Los Tres – How to Hike to the Base of Mt. Fitz Roy

Last Modified: February 13, 2024 //  by Anda //  40 Comments

If you were to do just one hike in Patagonia, it should be the one to Laguna de Los Tres, at the base of Mt. Fitz Roy. This iconic trek which is every hiker’s dream and one of the world’s most amazing destinations. The hike will take you to the base of the majestic mountain complex – the Fitz Roy – which consists of three peaks: Cerro Fitzroy (3,405m), Cerro Torre (3,128m), and Poincenot (2,558m). Hence the name of the lagoon at its foot – Laguna de Los Tres (which in Spanish means the Lake of the Three). 

People compare the hike to Laguna de Los Tres with the famous and equally impressive trek to Torres del Paine, in Chile, and they are right. Both granite peaks are very similar in shape and both hikes are really amazing. However, the hike to the base of the Fitz Roy massif enjoys a much more spectacular scenery. It is also much more difficult than most other hikes in Torres del Paine. 

Hiking to Laguna de Los Tres
Pinch me, wow, we made it to the top!

We made two attempts to complete the Fitz Roy trek to Laguna de Los Tres and when we finally reached the top we just couldn’t believe our eyes! 

Table of Contents

  • How did Mt Fitz Roy get its name
  • Hiking to Laguna de Los Tres
    • Points of Interest Along the Hike to Laguna de Los Tres
  • Hiking Back to El Chalten from Laguna de Los Tres
  • Is the hike to Laguna de Los Tres worth the effort?
  • What to pack for this hike

How did Mt Fitz Roy get its name

Mt Fitz Roy was originally called El Chaltén, which in Tehuelche dialect means “smoking mountain”. The Tehuelche (South American Indians) thought the mountain looked like a smoking volcano. This is due to a rare eolian phenomenon that makes the clouds surrounding the granite peak appear as smoke is coming out of the mountain. 

View of Mt Fitz Roy
Mt Fitz Roy was originally called El Chaltén, which in Tehuelche dialect means “smoking mountain”

In 1877, Francisco P. Moreno, an Argentinian explorer, wanted to embark on a major expedition to Patagonia. He knew the British had chartered much of this territory back in the 1830s, so he asked them for a map.

The Brits agreed to give him the map on one condition. He was to name the highest peak he will discover in Patagonia after Robert Fitz Roy, the captain of the HMS Beagle, who led Charles Darwin’s famous expedition to Tierra del Fuego. And that’s how Cerro Chaltén became Cerro Fitz Roy.

Hiking to Laguna de Los Tres

Distance: 17.5 miles (28km) 
Time: 9-10 hours (before breaks and photography stops)
Difficulty: Difficult

Map of the hike to Laguna de Los Tres
Map of the hike to Laguna de Los Tres

NOTE: You can hike to Laguna de Los Tres and the base of Mt FitzRoy either starting from El Chaltén (via Laguna Capri), or starting at Hosteria El Pilar (via Mirador Piedras Blancas). The trail from El Pilar is actually shorter, but it requires a car since it’s 15 kilometers away from El Chaltén.

Imagine depicting mountain peaks and the sign for Hosteria Pilar
Hosteria Pilar, the shorter route to Laguna de Los Des

The trail goes along Rio Blanco then climbs up through a beautiful Beech forest, passing Mirador Piedras Blancas and then getting to Camp Poincenot. From Poincenot the trail merges with the one coming from El Chaltén and goes up to Laguna de Los Tres.

Hiking the FitzRoy trek to Laguna de Los Tres
Hiking to Laguna de Los Tres

Points of Interest Along the Hike to Laguna de Los Tres

We started our hike at Hosteria El Pilar. Initially, the trail follows the rocky river bed of Rio Blanco, winding through some beautiful calafate bushes.

After about 1/2 km it passes through a gate that marks the entrance to the Los Glaciares National Park. From this point on the hike goes constantly uphill, passing through a dense forest and crossing small streams.

FitzRoy trek entrance to Los Glaciares National Park
The road passes through beautiful forests

The first 10 km of the hike are not particularly difficult, so if you don’t have the energy to do the entire Fitz Roy trek, you can stop along the way at a couple of points and turn back. This trek is extremely picturesque, so doing just part of it won’t make you feel like you wasted your time.

   • Mirador Piedras Blancas

The first point where you can choose to stop is at Mirador Piedras Blancas, which offers a fantastic view of the Piedras Blancas Glacier across the valley. Most people starting on this trail actually come only to this point (8 km away from Hosteria El Pilar).

Hiking to Laguna de Los Tres
Mirador Piedras Blancas

Once you reach the Mirador, you can continue to Campamento Poincenoit and Laguna de Los Tres. Or you can choose to turn back to El Pilar, which was what we did on our first attempt to reach the mighty Mt Fitz Roy. 

Our initial plan was to go all they way up, but the weather began to change so we decided to turn back and try again the following day. Hiking the Fitz Roy trek in bad weather is quite dangerous, even if you are an experienced hiker. Besides, there is no point if attempting this difficult ascent if you can’t enjoy the beautiful scenery.

   • Campamento Poincenot

From Mirador Piedras Blancas the trail continues through the woods for another 2.5 km, after which it emerges into a large grassland area with awesome views of Fitz Roy massif. 

Just a short walk from this beautiful, flat area, you arrive at Campamento Poincenot, a small campground in the forest. This is the second point where you can choose to call it a day and turn back. From Poincenot you can either return to El Pilar, or you can take the road towards El Chaltén and pass by Laguna Capri. 

Large grassland area with views of Mt Fitzroy
Large grassland area with views of Mt Fitzroy

Camp Poincenot is the starting point for one of the world’s most challenging ascents: Mount Fitzroy. Many hikers choose to split the FitzRoy trek into two days with an overnight stay at Campamento Poincenot, since the most difficult part of this trek starts right after you pass the campsite.

We chose not to stop and spend the night at the camp. Although we were really tired after 4 hours of intense hiking, the perspective of facing the dreadful Patagonian winds in a small, flimsy tent didn’t seem too appealing.

Camp Poincenot on the way to Laguna de Los Tres
Campamento Poincenot, a small campground on the way to Laguna de Los Tres

   • The last stretch to the top

Up until this point, the change in elevation is not so dramatic. But as soon as you cross the Río Blanco, the landscape changes completely. There are only 2 kilometers left to go, but 400 meters to ascend! This is the equivalent of climbing approximately 1,300 feet in 1.3 miles. It is really steep! The final hurdle to overcome, before reaching the cobalt blue waters of the Laguna de Los Tres and the three granite peaks behind it. 

Hikers to Laguna de Los Tres
The last stretch of the hike

The last hour of the hike is almost straight up, more like a rock climbing than a hike. Without trekking poles, this stretch of the trek is really difficult to do.

wet rocks on the way up the mountain
Approaching the top of the mountain

At the top of the steepest section of trail we came across a false summit. That feels a little demoralizing. Just when you think you’ve made it to the top, you realize you still have some hiking to do. But from from that point on the slope becomes a little more relaxed. 

hikers on their way up to the Fitz Roy
… almost there!

The final ascent takes you onto a moraine overlooking the Laguna de Los Tres, with the glaciers, snowfields and the three granite peaks behind it. Once you reach the top and see that view, all your efforts seem justified and worthwhile.

Words can’t express the feeling you get when you realize that you finally made it! You are now face to face with  the mighty Fitz Roy peak and the blue waters of Laguna de Los Tres!

Looking at Mt FitzRoy at Laguna de Los Tres
Enjoying the fantastic views of the Fitz Roy mountains

It’s so beautiful, that you don’t want to go back. But you cannot stay on the summit forever, so eventually you have to come down again!

Hiking Back to El Chalten from Laguna de Los Tres

Our way down was harder than we thought. Despite relaxing at the top for almost two hours, we felt pretty tired. Scrambling back the same rocky path didn’t seem much easier on the way down.

The stream of water that was flowing down the trail was making some boulders quite slippery. And to make things worse, just a few turns from the top, we came a cross a gruesome accident.

One of the hikers we saw earlier on the trail, an older guy, just had a heart attack. People were gathered around trying to resuscitate him, but to no avail. In just a few short minutes he passed away. Witnessing this terrible scene was a sad reminder of how fragile life can be. Hikes like these are not a joke!

Hiking down from Laguna de Los Tres
Hiking down to El Chalten through the Lenga Forest

Is the hike to Laguna de Los Tres worth the effort?

Most of us embarking on long and difficult hikes seek challenge. We try to push ourselves into a new body, or a new state of mind. But sometimes, when the effort is too big, even though you succeeded it feels unnerving.

More often than not, after starting a difficult hike I begin wondering whether it was a good idea. A loud voice inside my head keeps screaming at me: “this was a terrible mistake, you shouldn’t have started this… walking uphill sucks!”

Truth is that strenuous hikes are not fun, but when you manage to get to the top of the mountain you feel that your efforts were worth it. And that’s when you realize that good things always come from being able to push through the difficult parts. So although very difficult, the hike to Laguna de Los Tres at the base of Mt. Fitz Roy is totally worth it.

What to pack for this hike

The packing list for the hike to Laguna de Los Tres is pretty similar to the one I wrote about packing for Patagonia. Be sure to check that out if you are planning to visit El Chaltén and the Argentinian side of Patagonia. 

The only thing I could add is that Los Glaciares National Park has a NO FIRE policy. So if you are planning to camp in the park, be advised that no cooking over an open flame is allowed.

However, there are plenty of places in El Chaltén that sell delicious food packages, with sandwiches and baked goods. These pre-made sandwiches are a good idea even if do the Fitz Roy trek as a day trip. Just make sure you don’t load your backpack too much. The last stretch of the hike is a killer! 

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Laguna de Los Tres

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Category: Argentina, DESTINATIONS, South AmericaTag: Hiking trips, Patagonia

About Anda

Anda is an award winning travel writer, avid globetrotter and passionate photographer. She is the voice behind "Travel Notes & Beyond," a collection of stories and travel impressions from her wanderings around the world. When she is not busy writing, traveling, or editing photographs, you can find her hiking in the foothills behind her house together with her husband and their dog.

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Rose Shine

    December 2, 2024 at 12:22 am

    Awesome post! The Fitz Roy trek looks absolutely stunning, and your detailed guide to hiking Laguna de los Tres is so helpful. The tips on timing and gear are perfect for first-timers. Any advice on how to handle the challenging sections of the trail, especially in unpredictable weather?

    Reply
    • Anda

      December 2, 2024 at 2:37 pm

      My only advice is to turn back if unexpected wind or rain come while you are hiking.

      Reply
  2. Norman

    March 8, 2021 at 8:20 am

    How absolutely awesome and detailed !! Thanks so much ! I am planning to do the hike in late Apr/early May (autumn, I believe there).. can’t wait !

    Reply
    • Anda

      March 8, 2021 at 11:25 am

      You are going to love it, Norman. Good like with your Patagonia trip.

      Reply
  3. Maria

    January 19, 2020 at 1:26 pm

    When did you hike up to Fitz Roy? I’m planning a trip in early May and am wondering if I should postpone it until the spring time. Thanks!

    Reply
    • Anda Galffy

      January 20, 2020 at 1:53 pm

      We did it in fall. If you can do it in fall, I would strongly recommend you do so because of the amazing red/orange color that you’ll have all around. In summer or spring everything there will be very little color around. Just greet.

      Reply
  4. Vasu Devan

    May 2, 2019 at 7:16 pm

    What a spectacular sight! Worth every minute of the hike, I am sure. Sorry to learn about the mishap you had to experience on your descent. I fully agree that we, humans, are probably not as strong as we portray ourselves.

    Reply
  5. Francesca Murray

    May 1, 2019 at 1:52 pm

    I’ve seen Laguna de Los Tres in so many instagram photos, but never really knew how to get there or what type of hike it took. Those post was so thorough! I can’t believe how steep that final stretch is. I’d probably have to train for something like this!

    Reply
    • Anda Galffy

      May 1, 2019 at 3:59 pm

      Not really. The hike is very difficult only in the last part. Most of the trail is OK, but the problem is that at the you end you are very tired.

      Reply
  6. Indrani

    May 1, 2019 at 1:51 am

    Quite brave of you to venture out on such an adventurous hike. I have done much shorter hikes. But your pictures prove the trek up Fitz Roy is worth it! Agree with you that good things always come from being able to push through the difficult parts.

    Reply
  7. Jen

    April 30, 2019 at 8:40 am

    Wow, this looks like a challenging hike, but well worth the views of Mt. Fitz Roy at the end! All of your photos are beautiful and I love the fall colors along the way. Thanks for sharing about the realities of what to expect. So sad to hear about the hiker who passed away. What a scary thing to witness.

    Reply
  8. Elaine Masters

    April 29, 2019 at 9:33 pm

    I so admire your strength and gumption. I’m planning a milder multi-day hike in Japan and need to start training. My step-kids tackled Patagonia last winter. Even though you had to turn back one day returning the next was well rewarded. Beautiful pictures!!

    Reply
    • Anda Galffy

      April 29, 2019 at 10:08 pm

      Thanks Elaine. We wanted to do this hike before we are too old, hahaha!

      Reply
  9. Linda (LD Holland)

    April 29, 2019 at 6:21 pm

    It seems that so many people are talking about Patagonia this year. I can see why climbing Mt Fitz Roy is the thing to do. But I will only ever be able to see if from afar. But seeing the “smoking volcano” from afar looks like an amazing view. So many great viewpoints on the hike. Simply stunning.

    Reply
    • Anda Galffy

      April 29, 2019 at 10:07 pm

      Patagonia is unbelievably beautiful. Definitely worth visiting even if you are not a hiker.

      Reply
  10. Dorene

    April 29, 2019 at 6:09 pm

    First of all, I am sorry to hear you witnessed another hiking facing his last breath, how terrible, but yet another example of how precious and short life can be. Your pictures are absolutely outstanding, it is definitely one of the most breathtaking places in the world and there is a big effort to get there. You guys were troopers and toughed it out instead of tenting – wow! What an accomplishment Congratulations. I am kicking myself we never made it that far into Patagonia – so another reason to go back.

    Reply
    • Anda Galffy

      April 29, 2019 at 10:06 pm

      Thanks Dorene. We truly wanted to do Patagonia before we are too old to hike in such harsh conditions. You definitely should go visit it.

      Reply
  11. Amanda

    April 29, 2019 at 12:55 pm

    Whoa this is a major trek. I have never embarked on something like this and not sure I could, but wow what an adventure. It really sad to hear about the man who had a heart attack. How scary.

    Reply
    • Anda Galffy

      April 29, 2019 at 10:07 pm

      It was kind of difficult to be honest with you, but we made it. I don’t think I would go back though, lol!

      Reply
  12. Jenn and Ed Coleman

    April 28, 2019 at 12:40 pm

    I love this post. OMG it’s so beautiful there. I am with you about hiking out vs camping in the blistering winds. Even in a 4 season tent it’s hard to sleep with the wind buffeting it around all night.

    Reply
    • Anda Galffy

      April 28, 2019 at 8:04 pm

      I never really liked camping, but when I was younger I could put up much easier with the inconveniences and the lack of comfort. However, considering the difficulty of this trek, I believe a good night sleep in the comfort of a warm room is essential.

      Reply
  13. Paula Schuck

    April 27, 2019 at 6:01 pm

    Well I have only discovered hiking in the last five years. This hike sounds so very worthwhile. One day I will visit Patagonia and remember this. I pinned it for later as well. Thanks.

    Reply
  14. Jane Dempster-smith

    November 28, 2018 at 4:32 am

    Great information Anda as we are heading that way tomorrow and thinking of doing the first part of the trek only.

    Reply
    • Anda Galffy

      November 28, 2018 at 12:07 pm

      The first part is beautiful Jane, but the second one is really exciting. Good luck.

      Reply
  15. David Johnston

    May 18, 2018 at 10:06 am

    I can’t wait to visit Patagonia one day to see exactly the kind of scenery you show here. The Fitz Roy trek sounds really rewarding and I think I’d be in heaven walking around with those views. Phenomenal!

    Reply
  16. Rob+Ann @TravelLatte(.net)

    May 16, 2018 at 10:56 pm

    What beautiful scenery! It always seems to me that good scenery makes a hike less grueling. Very inspirational, as well, for those of us who haven’t kept hiking as often as we should. #TheWeeklyPostcard

    Reply
  17. Anna

    May 13, 2018 at 8:18 am

    Oh, I started to read the hike details and it´s already Argentinian Patagonia! I don´t see the border between two countries in this area though(on google maps)! Do you get to Los Glaciares National Park from Chile of from Argentina only?

    Reply
    • Anda Galffy

      May 13, 2018 at 10:42 am

      You can get there both from El Calafate, which is in Argentina, or from Chile.

      Reply
  18. Anna

    May 13, 2018 at 8:00 am

    What a hike! 9-10 h must be quite a climb, but the views are so worth it! The Fitz Roy trek definitely goes to my travel bucket list! And your photos from Chile keep giving me some serious wanderlust a 3rd weekend in row.

    Reply
  19. Lydia

    May 13, 2018 at 3:13 am

    Patagonia is on my bucket list for a while now, Anda! Reading your post made me realize that hiking up the Laguna de Los Tres should be on the top of my list. Is it a challenging hike?

    Reply
  20. jill

    May 12, 2018 at 5:15 am

    What incredible scenery – and beautiful photos. I’m pretty sure I couldn’t complete this hike but what rewards to you for making it. This also reminds me that I haven’t been hiking in quite some time 🙂

    Reply
    • Anda Galffy

      May 13, 2018 at 12:57 am

      You shouldn’t abandon the good, old habit of hiking, Jill. It keeps in in form.

      Reply
  21. Anisa

    May 12, 2018 at 12:36 am

    Wow, it does look like a stunning hike, great pictures! As I was reading about that last steep part I was wondering if you had to go back down the same way. I think going done that steep part would be the hardest for me. I would have to take it very slow. Also sad to read about that other hiker, life is just so precious.

    Reply
    • Anda Galffy

      May 13, 2018 at 1:01 am

      Coming down was hard for me too, Anisa. Especially after hiking for 6-7 hours.

      Reply
  22. California Globetrotter

    May 12, 2018 at 12:08 am

    It’s like each post from your trip to Chile is even more ridiculously beautiful than the last! It would be a dream to hike this and maybe one day we’ll be fit enough to attempt it! Just wondering why though you attempted to hike it twice?

    Reply
    • Anda Galffy

      May 13, 2018 at 1:03 am

      Because the weather turned bad and we didn’t want to take any changes. Hiking the top part of the mountain when the winds are blowing hard, it’s quite dangerous Besides, you want to go up there and admire the landscape, not just make the effort and stay in the rain.

      Reply
  23. Rhonda Albom

    May 11, 2018 at 2:24 pm

    The photos of the scenery are absolutely stunning. I agree with you in that I’d rather do it all in one day as opposed to spending a cold night in a tent (and having to cart the tent and extra gear with me). Your “descent into chaos” is a reminder that anything can happen at any time.

    Reply
    • Anda Galffy

      May 11, 2018 at 5:05 pm

      Yea, that was quite a sad event.

      Reply
  24. Mary (The World Is A Book)

    May 11, 2018 at 12:14 pm

    This looks like such a grueling hike but those views are incredible. Definitely worth the struggle and so happy for you with this accomplishment. I remember you posting about that man who passed away. What a tragedy. The scenery looks like postcard shots.

    Reply
    • Anda Galffy

      May 11, 2018 at 5:05 pm

      Glad you liked the pictures, Mary.

      Reply

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