Chora Church Museum – the Sistine Chapel of Istanbul

Istanbul is famous for its amazing mosques and Ottoman architecture. But few people know that Istanbul is also home to one of the most beautiful Byzantine churches in the world – Chora Church. The church, which is also known as the Kariye Museum, or Kariye Camii (Chora Mosque) is situated in the Erdinekapı district of İstanbul.

Before traveling to Istanbul I read a few things about Chora’s fine mosaics and frescoes. But nothing can prepare you for the revelation you’ll have when you see them in person. If I were to name one church in Istanbul that rivals in beauty with Hagia Sophia, it would be the Chora Church.

A Brief History of Chora Church

Chora Church has a long and twisted history that dates back to the 4th century. Initially the church was part of a monastery located outside the city walls of Constantinople. Its full name was the Church of the Holy Saviour in the Country.

In the 5th century, when the city walls were erected, the monastery became a figure of the city’s defense.

Over the centuries Chora Church underwent some remodeling, but the most beautiful Byzantine frescoes and mosaics date from the 13th century. The Church was considered one of the most beautiful examples of Byzantine architecture and Paleologan Renaissance. But what sets it apart are the 50 fabulous mosaics, most of which are still in excellent condition.   

After the fall of Constantinople in 1453, the Ottoman rules converted the Orthodox church into a mosque and named it ‘Kariye’ (the Turkish name for Chora). Luckily, they didn’t destroy the artwork, but covered in plaster because of the Islamic belief which considered worshiping engraved images an idolatry.

The frescos and mosaics were first uncovered in the 19th century. Sadly, several years later they have been covered again, by the order of the government.

During the World War II a group of American archaeologists rediscovered the stunning mosaics and brought them back to light. In 1948 the church-turned-mosque was secularized and became a museum.     

 What to Expect When Visiting the Chora Church Museum    

The exterior of the church is rather modest, when you compare it with other religious edifices like Hagia Sophia or the Blue Mosque. But once you step inside you’ll be astound by the splendor of the interior frescoes and mosaics.

Part of the church displays scenes from the New Testament and the early life of Christ, while another part features beautifully colored frescoes. 

     

At the time of our visit Chora Church was undergoing major renovations thus we could only visit parts of it. As of 2016 the naos (the main body of the church) was closed. Only the narthex, the two lateral porches  (esonarthex and exonarthex) and the parecclesion (small chapel) can be visited.

A very interesting part of the museum is the parecclesion –once used as a mortuary chapel for family burials. Here you are going to see some dazzling frescoes. Among them is the famous resurrection of Christ, who had just broken down the gates of hell and is pulling Adam and Eve out of their tombs.

Practical Information

Visitation Times

In 2020, when the Turkish Government decided to turn Hagia Sophia into a mosque, Chora Church has been closed to visitors, while waiting to be converted into a mosque again. The decision triggered complaints from Unesco and scholars over the risk of concealing again the Byzantine mosaics and frescoes inside the building, known as the Sistine Chapel of Istanbul.

Admission Fee

Before being converted into a mosque again, Chora Church Museum entrance fee was 65 Turkish Liras. Since Chora became a mosque again, the entrance should be free. However, as of May 2023 when I updated this post, Chora Church Museum is still not open for visitation.

How to Get to Chora Church

Chora Church is tucked away in the little-visited Edirnekapi District –one of Istanbul’s oldest neighborhoods– which is why that most visitors will overlook it. You’ll have to get out of the beaten path to visit this church, but it’s well worth the effort. 

To reach the church from Eminönü, you can either take a taxi, or take the 32 bus to Edirnekapi. From Sultanahmet, we took the tram (T1) to Topkapi stop and then tram (T4) from Topkapi to Edirnekapi stop. While in the area, you can also visit Istanbul’s old City Walls. 

     

Tips for Photographing Chora Church

Chora Church is breathtakingly beautiful! Unfortunately, like in many other places in Istanbul, they won’t let you use a tripod in Chora Church.  Photographing old churches poses a real challenge because most of them are very dark. It’s almost impossible to get a clear shot hand-holding your camera.

But in my quest for good photography, I became very creative. One trick I’ve always used in churches is my small Gorillapod, which not many people can detect. The small tripod can be pinned on the back of a pew, handrail, or even placed on the ground. By the time they discover you and ask you to put the tripod away, you have already managed to take a few good shots. This trick worked quite all right in Chora Church, so you may try it.    

A good way of substituting the tripod is to look for flat surfaces where you can place your camera. If you choose this method, you’ll need a wireless remote to operate the shutter release. This worked fine so far, with the exception that it is sometimes difficult to find the right level surface.

At any rate, I managed to come up with some nice pictures from Chora Church which I hope will help you appreciate the beauty of these mosaics.

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